I felt like I’d fallen through the looking glass. At the end of a thirty minute boat ride from Darien , Georgia ,
we stepped onto the dock at Eagle
Island . Our first impressive sight was an array of
tree pots: upended trees with their towering roots filled with cascading green
foliage. A parade of come-to-life,
upside down palmettos parading past the arbors of woven wisteria vines like
fancy women in Easter bonnets.
This is a private
island, a total escape, only me and the four women I came with. There’s one
house with no others in sight surrounded by endless marshes and ten acres to
explore. Everything we needed to be
content was included, even unexpected amenities like a hotel-size ice maker,
groceries, ping-pong, a fabulous outdoor kitchen, a fire pit, indoor fireplace
and more kitchen equipment than most houses.
The crab traps were already catching crabs. Happy hour started before the drinks hit the
blender.
Daydreams started bubbling in our minds as we settled into
the rhythm of Eagle
Island . Who could help it with inviting places to
relax like the comfy swinging porch bed, the hot tub, the fanciful outdoor
shower and the bench by the pond? We
meditated in the porch swing at the end of the dock where 360 degree marsh views
lulled our minds into another dimension.
Each night our dreams were filled with exotic images inspired by the
Indonesian furniture in the four bedrooms and the quiet sounds of nature.
Our host, Andy Hill, is a Renaissance man and collector of
islands. He would not be the least bewildered, as Alice in Wonderland was, when she was asked
“Can you row?” and handed a knitting needle.
Andy relishes reinvention. The
dock is lined with pickle jars turned into artistic turtle lanterns. The dock itself is made from salvaged
lumber. There’s a book shelf made from a
boat, driftwood chandeliers and a bow of a ship waiting to be turned into an
oyster table. The ultimate repurposing
though is Andy’s amazing oyster steamer.
It’s the size of a bed, powered by propane and it used to be an immense restaurant
deep fryer. When the pneumatic lid was
opened, a billow of steam enveloped us. Andy
and his helpers use it to make his “Eagle Island Five Moon Oysters”. “We’re not a five star resort” Andy
says. “We’re a five moon
destination.”
We watched the crew steam
the oysters and then put them on the half shell into a cast iron frying pan,
cover them with cheese, scallions, bacon and jalapeno peppers. Then, with a flourish, he poured in a conch shell
full of bourbon. Covered and fired over
a propane flame, they became pillows of marshy succulence. (see complete recipe below). All of this was done downstairs in the outdoor
kitchen surrounded by turtle lanterns and moonlight, seagrass and
seashells. Right out of Southern Living.
Included in the trip to Eagle
Island is the opportunity to explore
the surrounding area such as Sapelo Island and Andy’s other project at May Hall Island where he has been building a Wonderland
vacation house for his family for several years. Visitors can rent a pontoon boat from Andy,
bring their own boat or hire him to tour the area. There are also kayaks provided with the house. On Sapelo
Island we drove along the rough road
to see the Reynolds
Mansion and the small
hamlet where 45 islanders live. Hitting
the beach, even those of us who live on the coast gathered up the huge
seashells that looked like they’d eaten Alice ’s
mushrooms and grown enormously.
The visit to May Hall really showed Andy’s creativity. “Sometimes, I've believed as many as six
impossible things before breakfast.” the Queen told Alice .
Andy can top that. He told us
that for many years any time something was demolished in the area, he’d get a
call to salvage the materials.
Throughout the island are piles and piles of sorted tiles, lumber,
plants, bricks, tree trunks and barrels that he hauled over by barge. They’re all waiting to be reinvented. An elaborate tile mosaic covers a huge patio
and outdoor fire place, slate seats dot the forest trails, the entire
waterfront is bordered by salvaged ballast rocks and more parading tree pots. Curiouser and curiouser. His fantasy doesn’t end there though. Across long boardwalks are his other islands
cheekily named Mick and Jagger where the Lowcountry forests remain, so far at
least, untamed.
And so we left this magical place where one thing is
transformed to another and trees come to life.
Alice
asked the Cheshire cat “Where should I go?" "That depends on where
you want to end up." The Cat replied. We’d ended up on Eagle Island . It’s just a three hour drive, half hour boat ride and through the looking
glass from Charleston .
If You Go: Eagle Island is accessible only by boat. Transportation to the
island is included with the island house rental. For more information see http://www.privateislandsofgeorgia.com/
- One bushel of oysters
- 1 conch shell--cleaned and sanitized for use as a measuring cup
- 4 ounce bag of Mexican 4-blend cheese
- 4 bundles of fresh scallions, finely chopped
- 2 pounds of bacon, cooked and crumbled
- 10 jalapeno peppers, sliced
- 1 box of saltine crackers
- 3 cups of your favorite bourbon
This article was published in the Island Connection and the Island Eye