Whenever I
unload my bike at a trailhead in the Francis
Marion Forest ,
I always imagine it saying “YES! I was made for this!” It’s not a fancy bike
but the wide tires and shock absorbers are perfect for the rough, rooted,
narrow trails that transverse the forest.
As I ride past bays, marshes, campgrounds, flooded rice fields and
waterways my energy rises. Often the occasional snake, alligator, wild turkey,
deer, boar or the myriad of birds are my only companions. This has become one of my favorite pastimes
for high octane exercise, especially in the cooler months. And a great escape. On my annual “it’s not the bridge run” ride,
I drop racers off at the Cooper
River Bridge
starting line and head out to my contrarian destination. Even on days when the
city is full of visitors, the forest is almost empty despite the easy
accessibility of trails just a few miles from Charleston .
Ready to get
off the road and ride for an hour or two?
Head to the South Tibwin Trail
near McClellanville which is cooperatively managed by the Forest Service, the SC
Department of Natural Resources and Ducks Unlimited. Over the five miles of
trails there are hardwood bottomlands, pine uplands, tidal marshes, freshwater
ponds and wetlands. Tibwin Creek is as wide
as a river and full of jumping fish.
Ramshackle docks extend over the water and old rice trunks that were
used to flood the fields in plantation days are still evident. Great Blue Herons swoop overhead. From the wildlife blinds, you might see
egrets, eagles, hawks or possibly river otters and bald eagles. This is billed as a loop trail for biking but
it is not well marked with blazes so a map, downloadable from the websites
below, is handy.
My favorite
ramble is the Awendaw Connector
section of the Palmetto Trail. Over its
seven scenic miles it weaves between Awendaw Creek and the forest.
Birds, including the endangered red cockaded woodpecker, are plentiful. The trail is bike-able but you’ll have to
dismount occasionally to avoid thick tree roots or standing water. You can begin at Buck Hall Landing, the
easternmost end of the Palmetto Trail, where there’s a picnic area, fishing
dock, bathrooms and a campground. Or
start closer to Mt.
Pleasant at Rosa Green Road . The forest service sign indicating Rosa Green Road
says, “Awendaw Creek Canoe Launch” and the launch is truly a marvel of
engineering with a wide rail to drag your kayak or canoe down to the
water. Americorp and the other
organizations that built this trail have constructed sturdy wooden bridges and
benches. Sit awhile. Eat an apple.
Breathe. The sweeping marsh views are straight out of a Pat Conroy novel. If
you take an out of town visitor on this trail they’ll never want to leave the
Lowcountry.
A bit longer,
the Tuxbury Trail is shared by bikers,
hikers and horses and consists of 14 miles of interconnecting trails near
Cainhoy. The habitat is less varied than
the Awendaw Connector with some sandy patches.
Sharing the trail with horses could be a problem but I saw no sign of
them on my visit. However, the Wambaw Cycle Trail is a different
story. Thinking that “cycle” meant my Schwinn, I optimistically headed there. But as I drove closer, I had to yield to
speeding motorcycles darting across the forest roads. The “vroom”
of engines greeted me in the parking lot where dozens of empty ATV trailers
were parked. Detour! That turned out to
be a good day to ride on the nearby forest service roads instead.
For the tough and hearty who relish a longer
bike ride, the Swamp Fox Trail is
the answer. From here the forest
stretches widely to the west for many miles. This is where the Revolutionary
war hero Francis Marion hid out with his ragtag troops. It doesn’t take much imagination to picture
them here now, especially as the trail descends deeper into the thickest parts
of the forest. Today the Swamp Fox Trail
is a 42 mile section of the Palmetto Trail extending from the Hwy. 17 to Moncks
Corner. Any section is an easy walk and
a moderately easy bike ride. A two hour
bike ride from the Hwy 17 trailhead will take you to Halfway Creek campground
and back, twelve miles round-trip. The
bicycling is fairly easy in this section since it is older and not as rutted
with tree roots as the Awendaw Connector Trail. It’s also well marked and easy
to follow. Be forewarned that you might
hear gunshots from this trail. It isn’t
hunters. It’s the forest rifle range
located nearby and there is no danger. The entrance to the Swamp Fox Trail is
clearly marked on Hwy. 17 if you are headed south but there is no sign if
you’re headed north so use the mileage directions on the website to find it.
Construction of the Palmetto Trail began in 1994 and will extend 425
miles from Buck Hall Landing on the Intracoastal Waterway to the Blue Ridge Mountains when it is finished. About 300 miles are already completed. Dane Hannah works for the Palmetto
Conservation Foundation as the Lowcountry trail coordinator. He is single-handedly responsible for the 180
miles of trails from Columbia
to Awendaw, sometimes by hacking away overgrowth with a machete. He boasts that the Palmetto Trail includes
more than recreational destinations. It
goes through towns and cities such as Columbia
and Santee , and historic battlefields. You can even plan a biking stop at Sweatman’s
authentic barbeque in Holly Hill.
Excursions take some preparation.
It is common to find empty map holders or no holders at all on the
trailheads so download a map before you go.
The forest is very buggy in summer.
Some trails get quite muddy after rainy weather. Helmets are a must. And water of course. There is little danger from animals although
alligators are common on some trails. They are easily scared away if you loudly
yell at them “Move out of my way
alligator!” Snakes are often
seen. In one harrowing episode I saw a
four foot long snake draped across the path just as I speeded towards and (yikes!)
over it, unable to stop. It
slithered away afterwards. Since I’m sometimes
alone when I go biking, it’s comforting to know that cellphone signals are
strong throughout the woods.
The most important precaution is to have the right equipment. Road bikes will not do. When I introduced my friend, an avid road
biker, to the Palmetto Trail he insisted on taking his skinny tire bike. It ruined his experience. It’s also handy to have at least some gears
so beach bikes are not ideal. You’ll
want to change gears in sandy areas or for covering long distances without
getting fatigued.
Biking in the Francis
Marion National
Forest is an exhilarating plunge into nature. Speeding through the forest on your own
energy, you are immediately immersed into our wonderfully flat Lowcountry. Despite the similarities in the locales, every
outing is different. Ed Rice introduced
me to this pastime and passionately bikes often. He says, “The seasons always have a little
different presentation. Maybe the leaves
changed later this year or there was more rain.
The little glimpses of flora and fauna reveal themselves on each trip
and there’s always something new to see.”
He reveled in finding trumpet plant flowers this year in a Carolina bay. He’d been
there before but had never seen them until this year. On one memorable outing
he and I climbed a fire tower to find a bird box full of peeping baby
owls. Beneath the box, on the metal
steps, was a pile of bones from mice and other critters the owls had eaten.
I am often surprised by reactions when I tell people who live in the Charleston area that I’ve
been biking in the forest. “What
forest?” they often say. Those who have
been there know that it is just up the road and a world away from the
ubiquitous strip malls and traffic. Becoming
part of this expansive green world, speeding through the trees, the solitude of
the forest, these are the nearby adventures awaiting bikers in the Francis Marion Forest .
If you go:
Francis Marion Forest : http://www.fs.usda.gov/main/scnfs/home
Maps and directions: http://www.fs.usda.gov/activity/scnfs/recreation/bicycling/?recid=47051&actid=24
This article originally appeared in www.scwildlife.com