Surprises in Portugal

 

 

        It seems like everyone is going to Portugal, just got back or wants to go.  No wonder.  Renowned for its beauty, cuisine, culture and history, it’s an attractive destination.  My husband and I spent a month there this summer and found all of that to be true but there were some surprises.

        Getting there and getting around was very easy.  A quick Charleston to Philadelphia flight and a redeye to Lisbon got us there at 9AM. The return flight was even quicker. We planned our itinerary around the train system which is the best in Europe.  They’re comfortable and efficient and a great way to meet people. It was easy to not have a car since UBERS came in an instant for very low cost.  Furthermore, pedestrian safety is among the best in the world.  Cars always yield to crosswalks.

        The food was diverse. They say that Portugal has 365 recipes for cod, one for each day. Stacks of dried cod (which is imported from Norway nowadays) are in every store.  But our food tour guide Eloise introduced us to excellent Iberian pork, cheeses, chorizo and octopus.  There’s wonderful seafood of course but also plenty of ethnic cuisine.  And how nice that it’s safe to drink the tap water.

Dried cod for sale

        It’s both modern and historic.   While we sat in a square surrounded by churches built centuries ago, a busker sang and asked for requests.  Soon the crowd was singing Barbie movie songs, complete with dialogue! But pride in cultural runs deep. In Viana do Castelo we were entranced at a week-long festival that began in 1772.  Saints were carried from  church altars and put onto ships to be blessed at sea.  Citizens walked four hours in parades dressed in traditional clothes and stayed up all night to cover the streets with pictures made of rock salt.  “I get tears in my eyes every year,” our new friend Rosa told us.

Decorated streets in Viana do Castelo 

        And then there’s the politics.  Portugal banned the importation of slaves in 1761, almost 100 years before the U.S. (although it continued in their colonies).  But the Inquisition lasted decades longer, until 1821. We were struck by how democracy was won during a peaceful, one-day coup in 1974 known as the Carnation Revolution where the citizenry flooded the streets and put flowers into gun barrels, ending over 40 years of fascist rule.  It was the first country in the world to decimalize drugs and has one of the lowest drug usage rates in Europe.  Interestingly, a Portuguese man who works for a U.S. company told us that work-life differences create some friction.  Portuguese have 3 weeks of paid time off by law.  U.S. bosses are sometimes annoyed that their European employees don’t take work with them.  A waiter shared that he and his wife enjoy a nice standard of living due to the guaranteed minimum income laws and expats were eager to  boast of receiving medical care for a fraction of the U.S. cost.          

        And then there’s the wine.  No surprise that it’s so wonderful, but it’s surprisingly inexpensive.  Another delight:  tiny chocolate cups of ginjinha (a cherry liquor) sold from doorways all over the country.  

Chocolate cups of ginjinha

        And then there’s the pastry.  How many bakeries can one country support?  Apparently one on every block.  People linger over cappuccino and conversation so we made it our daily ritual too.  It was our duty to compare the ubiquitous pastel de nata (little custard tarts) that every city creates its version of.

Pastry for miles!

        

Portugal’s tourism is increasing and it’s easy to see why.  Vacationing there is comfortable, interesting and easy.  Compared to other European countries, it’s less expensive and it’s full of delightful surprises. 

       

       

       

       

 

      

       

Chasing the View

The view from our penthouse overlooking the Malecon. 

               My brother David is a man who appreciates luxury. “It’s all about the view,” he kept saying as he enticed my husband and me to join him and his wife in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. To prove his point he rented a penthouse condominium to share and insisted we take the master suite. From the bed, all we could see was the ocean. Even the shower had a picture window above the sea. The view below the expansive deck was the Malecón, the city’s 1 kilometer promenade. From our 3-story perch we watched it come alive each morning: stands sprang up selling crafts and colorful shish kabobs of fruit; a guy hawked Herbalife; a man painted completely brown posed as a human statue; break dancers drew crowds. When we watched the moon rise above the Pacific, it transformed into a dessert buffet: beautiful cakes, homemade ice cream and distinctive dishes from elotes to crepes. All set against the backdrop of the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains that span to the rocky shore.

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The view from the shower.

            A picturesque walk up the Malecón is the city’s “Romantic Zone” where traditional houses sit beside trendy bars. At dark it comes alive with the city’s best nightlife. The area calls itself “a true gay village” because the LGBT community owns many businesses. Gay marriage is legal here. Thriving destination wedding venues advertise with photos of couples against a backdrop of the Bay of Banderas surrounded by mountains.

            Our cousins Ellen and Bobby have spent several vacation months at the Shangra-La, a high rise near the marina. From the 12th floor of their 2500 square foot apartment they have a magnificent view. Downstairs there’s a mile-around swimming pool, a welcome alternative to the chilly ocean. Now they’ve made friends with other couples who come often. All-inclusives also rise along this part of the shoreline where you can enjoy your view from a swim-up bar if you’d like.
        I was fascinated by the dozen sculptures erected along the Malecón so I took a free walking tour one morning to learn more. There’s one of a whimsical unicorn that brings good luck if you rub it; a gluttonous man eating negative emotions; the iconic boy on a seahorse. They’re large, bronze and often attract mischievous children or drunks who climb on them. “What’s the liability issue if someone falls off?” a tourist asked the guide. “There is none,” he replied. “If people get injured it’s their problem! In Mexico (unlike in the U.S.) you are responsible for your own safety.” Art thrives throughout the town. In Lazaro Park I encountered a community group on their knees chatting while they added yet more tiles to the kaleidoscope of mosaic benches and walls.  
                                                                                                        

                           

               Following David’s quest for luxury with a view, we celebrated our anniversary at the beautiful Café de Artistes. I actually gasped when we entered the astonishing courtyard garden where tables are nestled on stone ledges surrounded by statues and glittering lights. Our celebratory dessert was plated upon a mirror with a flower pot of chocolate mousse and a standing spun sugar heart. Another night our view was of a beautiful sunset from under a thatched roof while eating lobster on the beach. Puerto Vallarta is in Jalisco where blue agave is grown. Throughout the town there are small shops offering tastings of small batch tequila brands. You can also book a tour to visit the farms.

            Cousin Ellen says, “Half our friends go to Florida to get a view of the ocean and half go to Arizona for views of the mountains. In Puerto Vallarta you can have both.” For us it added to the list of wonderful Mexican getaways. We were surprised to learn that we could have breakfast in the Lowcountry and be in Puerto Vallarta enjoying the view by lunchtime.

Greenville Takes Center Stage

 

The Liberty Bridge

            I keep returning to Greenville, S.C. I used to think of it as Charleston’s understudy but no more.  Like the colorful students from the Governor’s School for the Arts and Humanities that add energy to the city, it has written its own script.

            The dynamism of the city was shaped by Max Heller who was mayor in the 1970’s.  His life reads like a Russian novel. As a teen in Austria prior to World War II, his family was saved from the Holocaust by a chance meeting Max had with a young woman travelling from Greenville.  Her family ended up sponsoring the Heller’s immigration and he repaid that debt by orchestrating the city’s revitalization with a diverse group of business and political leaders.  A series of placards along Main Street recount his gratitude to the country that saved them and the generosity of his legacy:  "I was never interested in being the richest man in the cemetery."  

Yvette learning about Max Heller

            Downtown Greenville is designed for walking.  Set against the backdrop of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Main Street is lined with local shops, cafes, art galleries theaters, comedy clubs and restaurants. Money Magazine called it “Picture Perfect…a landscape that launched a thousand Instagram photos,” Over 200 events are hosted downtown each year including dozens of performances at 2,100 seat Peace Center.  More than seventy pieces of public art adorn the streets.  Just up Main Street is Falls Park on the Reedy, a 32-acre urban oasis.  The park’s centerpiece is the pedestrian Liberty Bridge that was built (with much controversy) after tearing down a four-lane thoroughfare.  Today it overlooks a rushing waterfall.  My girlfriend Yvette and I took in the scene from the balcony of the newly built (for $100 million) Grand Bohemian Hotel whose majestic lobby displays a fabulous collection of Native American jewelry. We sipped cocktails and watched barefoot students fly fishing and bicyclists heading to the Swamp Rabbit Trail which runs for 21 miles along the Reedy River. On another visit my sister and I explored that trail with electric bikes from Reedy Rides which zipped us all the way to Traveler’s Rest and back.

              Several dining experiences have proved why the New York Times wrote, “Though small…Greenville may be the next major food destination.”  One reason may be Aryana Afghan Cuisine where Yvette and I were greeted by exotic scents and the gorgeous proprietor Nelo.  Soon our table was full of dishes made from family recipes.  

Kabob dinner at Aryana

At Fork and Plough Restaurant we learned of their pandemic pivot:  an innovation to sell take-and-bake meals.  The chicken pot pies proved so successful they still make them by the dozens.  Greenville even has its own food festival Euphoria started by another of Greenville’s impresarios, Edwin McCain, who often plays at the riverside amphitheater.  Every September Euphoria fills restaurants and hosts dramatic meals in unique venues like the Wyche Pavillion, an upcycled a warehouse.  A couple we chatted with over hors d’oeuvres there said that they had moved from Charleston and were happy to enjoy a lower cost of living near the mountains.   

            Not far from Main Street is Heritage Green, Greenville’s art and cultural campus of museums, theaters and the county library.   Yvette and I were headed to Chautauqua Greenville.  But we stopped first for a stellar exhibit of Andy Warhol lithographs at the History Museum next door to the theater.  Chautauqua is an American tradition where actors portray notable historic characters and lead compelling discussions. It’s produced in many places across the country, 35 years in Greenville. The performance we saw featured festival founder George Frein portraying Mark Twain known as “the greatest humorist the United States has produced.” It was hilarious: “Clothes make the man. Naked people hardly ever have any influence;” and feisty: “Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason.”

            The realization of Greenville’s vision has attracted many fans and accolades.   Polls have praised its unrivaled friendliness and proximity to outdoor adventures.  LinkedIn voted it the “most optimistic city in the U.S.” Edwin McCain says,

“Greenville is everything. It’s why I still live here. I love all of the people. We have a diverse young city.” It’s certainly ready for its moment in the spotlight.

If You Go:

Greenville tourism: https://www.visitgreenvillesc.com/

Euphoria: https://euphoriagreenville.com/

Restaurant suggestions: https://aryanagreenville.com/

https://www.forkandplough.com/

Chautauqua Greenville: https://historycomesalive.org/

Bike Rental: https://reedyrides.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

             

Imagining an Expat Life in Mexico

 

 

Adrian Otto at home in San Miguel de Allende

        Adrian Otto had recently moved to San Miguel de Allende Mexico when she was awakened by a loud noise:  Bang, bang, bang.   “I dived under my bed.  I thought it was a drive-by shooting,” she said. No. Just some of the town’s frequent fireworks.  After being there a few years she told me, “I feel safer here than in the U.S.”  I heard that repeatedly from ex-pats that comprise about 10 percent of the town’s population. Adrian was inspired by environment there: “Everywhere I looked was full of natural beauty.”  It’s a UNESCO Heritage site.  But the pace of life took some adjustment.   “I took a taxi ride and wondered, ‘why is this taxi going so slow?’ No one is in a hurry here.”  I was astounded to see that in the historic town center (population 60,000) there are no stop signs.  Cars approach intersections and patiently take turn; no one honks and pedestrians are always afforded the right of way.

                When Adrian lived nearby on Sullivan’s Island, we loved watching her pet guinea pigs scampering around her yard.  Some play in a cage on her courtyard now where passersby stop to say hello. She’s continued to invest in real estate and now owns 2 houses in the Guadeloupe neighborhood which is famous for its colorful murals. Her renovated home is filled with local art, much of it depicting animals in reference to her careers as a veterinarian and horse jockey. 

                 The popularity of San Miguel for expats is attributable to Chicagoan Stirling Dickinson who wandered into El Jardin, the town square,  in 1937 and thought “ My God, what a sight! What a place. I’m going to stay here.” He cofounded an art institute.  After World War II he recruited hundreds of veterans to study there.  The G.I. Bill afforded them a much better lifestyle than in the U.S.  That art center became the Allende Institute which continues to offer a large variety of classes that contribute to the city’s sophisticated arts scene.

                During the month I spent in San Miguel I asked many expats why they’d moved there.  Chiefly the reason was financial.  The cost of living is much lower than the U.S.  That’s very appealing to digital nomads and to retirees who make up 80% of the ex-pat community.  Many are single women.  Girlfriend groups are apparent at restaurants and events.  Several told me how easy it is to make friends since everyone crosses paths at the numerous concerts, plays, tours and classes. There’s a huge English language library and over 100 nonprofit organizations where many volunteer. 

                It’s an easy place to live.  The climate is temperate. The tourist infrastructure is developed.  People walk the steep cobblestone streets everywhere or take inexpensive transportation.  There’s a notable absence of pushy street vendors.  Like Charleston, San Miguel has been voted #1 in the World in magazines but they seem to have handled it gracefully.  

     

          Another reason people cited for the move is politics.  One woman was caring for her aging mother several years ago and researching an affordable place to relocate when her mother was gone.  “Then Trump got elected and we both moved to San Miguel,” she said. Many told me they’d left the U.S. because of gun violence.  In fact, violent crime is very low in San Miguel. There are no drug cartels there. When I told people where I was going many said to me, “You’re going to Mexico!  Isn’t it dangerous?” And here were expats saying they’d moved to Mexico because it’s safer.  How ironic.