I’m not a
food writer but I often travel with some.
We’re lucky recipients of lavish meals meant to impress. Sometimes they’re
delectable and sometimes you have to wonder what they were thinking like a
dinner recently at a sprawling golf resort in Georgia . The tuna tartare was grandly displayed on a
gilded platter like a huge cow patty.
That should have been my first clue.
As the servers began to distribute dozens of artfully arranged plates with
three appetizers, the chef rhapsodized about the pigs we were about to eat and
what they’d eaten… local this and that…but the words that caught our attention
were “fromage de tête”. You don’t have
to speak much French to know that means head cheese. “This is dog food!” the writer next to me said
(a little too loudly I thought).
Meanwhile the chef went on, “It’s something that you’ll never see.” Well let’s hope not!
At Fire on
the Dock, a reality-show type cooking contest in North Carolina , chefs are given secret
ingredients and have to quickly include them in a three course meal for about
one hundred voting diners. The night I
attended the secret ingredients were buttermilk and chocolate. A remarkable praline crusted quail with
buttermilk biscuits and tartufo sauce had diners rushing to their ballot
sheets. And then there was the do-I-really-have-to-taste-it
dessert of sturgeon chocolate cake. Points
off for that one.
Cities try
to impress us with honey tastings, moonshine cocktails, flaming absinthe and
garnishes like popcorn shoots. They lay
out hors d’oeuvres on the lawn of the governor’s mansion, serve breakfasts in
farm’s barns and give us the password to speakeasies. But what impresses me is a good story about
people and their food. I found one at
the 75 year old Sea View Inn on Pawley’s Island . It’s really more of a boarding house on a
beautiful beach. Family style meals are
the epitome of Southern hospitality.
Their Palmetto Cheese was developed by proprietor Sassy Henry with
Vertrella Brown, the inn’s cook. This
version of pimento cheese became so popular that it has spawned a much larger
business than the inn and is now sold nationwide.
On Eagle Island Andy Hill cooked us up a
story in the scenic outdoor kitchen of his private island. “This is not a five star resort, it’s a
five-moon one,” he said as he poured a conch shell of bourbon into the steaming
oysters before adding cheese, diced scallions, crumbled bacon and jalapeno
peppers for a Five Moon Oyster dish that rivaled any Rockefeller. Watching him cook on the lantern-lit patio
surrounded by sea oats, the smell of the oysters and salt marsh…the food became
more than a recipe.
Stories
come from what inspired the food. Chef
Peter Pollay developed the menu at Posana’s Café in Asheville for his wife who follows a gluten
free diet: creative dishes like lobster mac and cheese made from ricotta
gnocchi and zucchini “noodles” standing in for pasta. “This is my version of the Taj Mahal,” he
said referring to how the palace was built as a tribute to the king’s
wife. Without that story, the menu was
just a delicious but forgettable meal.
Foods that
symbolize their locale intrigue me. On
St. Simon’s Island which our guide Captain Fendig described as “an
eat-stroll-eat-stop-stroll” sort of place,
we were instructed in the proper way to poach shrimp by the chef at
Halyard’s Restaurant: immerse them in
very hot but not simmering water with onions, lemons, Old Bay, carrots and
letting them sit just a moment. On the
other end of the culinary spectrum Palmer’s Café served us reinvented pancakes:
Buddy’s Banana Pudding Cakes, along with poached eggs over collared greens. That’s local flavor.
Hikers who
spend the night at Len Foote Hike Inn near Dawsonville Georgia come
away with a new appreciation of food. After
the five mile trek up the mountain, the hearty dinner is a welcome amenity but
it’s what happens afterwards that is the story:
they weigh the uneaten food from the dinner plates. The goal is zero waste, just one part of
their sustainability goal.
Occasionally
I stumble upon something so good I have to have the recipe as I did at Smokin’
Gold BBQ, a trophy encrusted hole-in- the-wall in Dahlonega , Georgia . “Most everyone orders the award winning corn
casserole,” the waitress told me. So I
did or course. Laurie Dieterle, the owner, was kind enough to share the recipe
with me and tell me how it developed from a “failed” attempt to make cornbread
that she quickly repurposed. I premiered
it at a pot luck shortly afterwards. Now
my friends want the recipe too.
On the
other hand, I could do without another swig of kombucha or one of the highly
touted Britt’s Donuts from Carolina
Beach . I know more than I ever wondered about
peaches from Georgia ,
Muscadine wine and Vidalia onions. The
long winded descriptions and the photo-ready plates that the food writers are
seeking are wasted on me. What I hunger
for are the stories behind the food.
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